Hirosaki 弘前

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The Tohoku region has few cities or towns of touristical interest, but Hirosaki is one that shouldn't be missed if you happen to pass through Aomori prefecture.

Hirosaki (pop. 175,000) was founded in the early 17th century as a castle town, and the old district retains all its charm.

The two best times of the year to visit Hirosaki are the cherry blossom season mid-April (note that they blossom later here in Northern Japan than in Tokyo or Kansai), and the first week of August, when the Neputa Matsuri is held.

Cherry blossoms are at their most beautiful around Hirosaki castle, where some 5000 cherry trees ornate the park. The castle itself isn't very big, but it is still an authentic construction dating from 1627 - except a turret rebuilt in 1810.

The Neputa Matsuri is famous all over Japan for its extravagant and colouful illuminated floats and accompanying dancers. The city of Aomori, some 30km north, holds its sister festival, named Nebuta Matsuri (note the "b" instead of "p") during the exact same period. Whichever you go does not really matter, but this is defnitely something to see, as it is one of the most spectacular festivals in Japan.

At the Northeast corner of the castle's park is the Neputa-mura Museum, displaying various floats used during the festival. It is presented as a village and also exhibits Japanese crafts, kites, toys, and has taiko drum sessions every 10 minutes.

Just north of Neputa-mura is the old Tsugaru domain samurai quarter (津軽藩の武家屋敷). The district was once reserved exclusively to samurai families, and some are still inhabited by their descedants. Occasionally, some houses are open to the public, although just strolling around gives a good impression of the atmosphere.

Hirosaki has two noteworthy temples. First, the Saisho-ji (最勝寺), south-west of the Chuo-Hirosaki station and Nakasan department store, has a remarkable 5-tiered pagoda built in 1667.

Further west (about 1km), you will find an entrance gate leading to the Chosho-ji temple (長勝寺) and its subtemples. The San-mon Gate was built 1629 and was clearly influenced by Nikko's Toshogu. The bell and bell tower are said to date back to the 14th century.

How to get there Hirosaki is best accesed from Aomori city. It is just 35 minutes by limited express on the JR Ou line (￥650).

From Tokyo, shinkansen only go as far as Hachinohe (also in Aomori prefecture). After the 3-hour ride to Hachinohe (￥9,350), the JR Limited Express Tsugaru to Hirosaki takes another 1 hour 40 minutes (￥2,200).

Express buses from Morioka take 140 minutes and cost about ￥3000.

Alternatively, Aomori Airport is a bit less than 1 hour away.